Belay Technique
- The following are universal belay principles:
- Always keep your brake hand (s) on the rope. ALWAYS.
- Only slide a hand when the rope is firmly held in the braking position.
- Always orient brake hands in their strongest natural position.
- Always maintain attention on your climber, and be watchful for any hazards in your surroundings.
What is the best way to belay a climber?
The climber and belayer should conduct harness checks before the climber starts climbing, which includes making sure the carabiners are locked, the rope is through the climber’s harness loops and the belay device is setup correctly. I have learned two types of belay techniques: pull, brake, under, slide (PBUS) or slip-slap-slide.
What does Off Belay mean in rock climbing?
Climber: “Off belay.” (I’m standing securely on the ground.) Belayer: “Belay off.” (I’ve stopped belaying you.) The “take” command: Many climbers use this rather than “tension” when they want the belayer to remove slack and take the weight of the climber on the rope.
How do you use a belay rope?
Insert the climber end of the rope into the belay device on the top and the end of the rope at the bottom. If you’re right handed, make sure the rope is on the correct side of the ATC device.
What is a belayer on a rock climb?
A climbing partner – called the belayer – stands below, controlling the tension on the climbing rope and helping the climber stay secure and avoid dangerous falls. In order to belay safely, learn how to tie in correctly and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system.
What are the steps of belay?
0:051:36How to Use Proper Top-Rope Belay Method | Rock Climbing - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipSo I pull I come down to my brake position I grab under my right hand I slide back to the belayMoreSo I pull I come down to my brake position I grab under my right hand I slide back to the belay device I pull back flat through back to the brake position grab under with slide back to the belay.
How do you belay for beginners?
3:305:54Belaying For Beginners - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipWith one hand on the live rope and one hand on the dead rope. Use a push-pull motion. Then returnMoreWith one hand on the live rope and one hand on the dead rope. Use a push-pull motion. Then return the dead rope to the lock off position to safeguard your climber.
How does rock climbing belay work?
The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. This way, climbers don't fall very far when they fall. The belay device is designed to create enough tension in the line so the belayer can easily hold the climber.
Is it possible to self belay?
Self-belay is the use of belaying equipment by a single person while rock climbing or mountaineering. Typically, belaying involves a two-person team: a climber ascends, while a belayer takes in their rope slack, ready to catch and arrest their fall; when self-belaying, the climber plays both roles.
Can you rock climb without a belayer?
If you decide to take on rock climbing solo, you will face some unique challenges. Mainly, it is extremely dangerous to be without a spotter or belay partner. With a lack of additional safety and accountability, you are at higher risk for serious injury.
Why do they say belay that order?
Belay that (or belay that order) In the unlikely event that a captain changes his mind and decides to rescind his last order by saying, “Belay that,” he is harkening back to the days when a “belaying” pin was used to hold a line fast (in its last position) on deck. In short, it means stop.
Can you belay someone heavier than you?
The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. Read more about it in detail in this post. Top rope climbing is a lot safer than lead climbing when it comes to belaying, as you usually never take an uncontrolled fall.
Is belay climbing safe?
Belaying is the most important safety skill in climbing and understanding the ins and outs of it can help keep you and your climbing friends safe. If you want to be safe while climbing you and your climbing partner need to be proficient with belaying and it should feel like second nature.
How do auto belays fail?
Most auto-belay accidents are the result of individuals failing to completely clip into the device, or forgetting to clip in entirely. (The precise circumstances of the June 12 accident at Ascent Studio Climbing & Fitness are still unknown.).
Can you lead climb alone at a gym?
Typically, climbing gyms have both rope climbing and bouldering. Bouldering basically just means climbing on much shorter walls with denser crash pads below and requires only shoes, no harness; you can do it completely solo, so you might want to hop on the wall and give it a try when you first get there.
How does an auto belay work?
How Do Auto Belays Work? An automatic belay device (AKA auto belay) takes up slack as you climb, thereby negating the need for a belayer on the ground. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device automatically catches the climber and slowly lowers them to the ground.
Can you top rope climb alone?
Top rope solo climbing could be advantageous for those who aren't able to bring a partner along with them. But as an advanced technique, solo top roping is a dangerous way to climb.
How can I belay safely?
Make sure the top of the rope bite emerges on the same side as the wire keeper. Attach the rope and belay device to your harness. Hook a locking carabiner through both the rope and the wire keeper, and attach it to the belay loop on your harness. Lock the carabiner securely.
Can you belay someone heavier than you?
The short answer to the question: Yes, you absolutely can belay someone heavier than you top rope. Read more about it in detail in this post. Top rope climbing is a lot safer than lead climbing when it comes to belaying, as you usually never take an uncontrolled fall.
How do you belay someone from above?
4:236:28How to Belay from Above - YouTubeYouTubeStart of suggested clipEnd of suggested clipIt just like you would for bling. Off your harness. Take that carabiner the big pair beaner and lockMoreIt just like you would for bling. Off your harness. Take that carabiner the big pair beaner and lock both the keeper strap and the rope.
What is a belay lesson?
Rock Climbing Belay Lessons Climb with a partner on the tall walls using a harness and rope (Top Roping)! One climbs as the other manages the rope (Belaying). Belaying requires proper training, practice, and certification!
Where should the climber rope be on a belay?
The climber-rope side of the bight, which goes up to the anchor and back down to the climber, should always be on the top side of your belay device .
What is belaying in climbing?
Belaying is a foundational skill that climbing classes teach early on and instruction from a qualified teacher is essential. This article covers the basics of top-rope belaying, but is not meant to replace hands-on learning. (For an overview of lead belaying, read, How to Belay a Lead Climber .) REI Outdoor School offers classes ...
What is a belay device?
Types of belay devices: Your belay device is used to manage rope slack/tension, catch a fall and lower your climbing partner. The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist.
Why do climbers use the "take" command?
The “take” command: Many climbers use this rather than “tension” when they want the belayer to remove slack and take the weight of the climber on the rope. The argument for using “tension” instead is that “take” can be confused with “slack,” and confusing those commands would be a very bad thing.
How to set up a belay?
While the climber ties in to the harness using a figure 8 knot, you need to do several steps: Close the system by tying a stopper knot in the end of the rope. This ensures your end of the rope will never pass completely through the belay device, dropping the climber.
What do you need for a belay class?
When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear.
Why do you have to react when you hear a climber yell?
Whether it’s because you hear the climber yell “Falling!” and/or you spot the fall because you never take your eyes off your climber, you must react quickly. That’s why your athletic belay stance is so important.
How to tell a climber to take her belayer?
Once the climber reaches the top of the wall (or as far as she wishes to climb), the climber should yell “take” to her belayer. The belayer takes in all the slack of the rope and can tell the climber “I got you” or something to that effect. The climber then sits on her harness and the belayer can communicate “lowering.”
What are the loops on a belay harness?
Tie-in loops – Two small loops that connect the belay loop to the waistbelt and leg loops and are used when the climber ties into the rope. Leg loops – The loops on the harness where the weight of the climber or belayer balances between your waist and legs.
How to check climber's knot?
Though, if you’re the belayer, you’ll also need to know how to check the climber’s knot. Tie a figure 8 knot on the end of the climbing side of the rope. Pass the tail of the rope up through both tie-in loops. Weave the rope tail around the figure 8 knot to make the rewoven figure 8. Tie off the end of the rope to back-up the knot.
Where to insert climber end of rope?
Insert the climber end of the rope into the belay device on the top and the end of the rope at the bottom. If you’re right handed, make sure the rope is on the correct side of the ATC device.
Which side of the brake hand should the gate face?
The gate should face the opposite side of the brake hand. The climber and belayer should conduct harness checks before the climber starts climbing, which includes making sure the carabiners are locked, the rope is through the climber’s harness loops and the belay device is setup correctly.
What is the importance of communication in climbing?
Communication is key, especially in a crowded indoor climbing gym. Climbers and belayers should be on the same page when starting to climb to make sure the partner is ready and attentive. Below are is a sequence of commands started by the climber before she ascends the wall.
Why add the climber's name to the end of the communication?
Tip: Add the climber’s or belayer’s name to the end of the communication especially when other climbing parties are around. It prevents confusion when the climber distances herself from the belayer.
What is a PBUS belay?
PBUS is a basic belaying technique that allows you to safely and steadily control the slack in the rope as your partner ascends. The PBUS technique involves using short, controlled, repetitive movements.
How to belay a rope?
While belaying, you must keep your dominant hand on the brake strand (the “tail” end of the rope emerging from the belay device) at all times . Your other hand should be either on the guide strand (the part of the rope that leads up to the climber) or on the brake strand, depending where you are in the belaying process. Keeping both hands in place will allow you to maintain control of the rope and quickly pull it taut in case of a fall.
What is belaying in climbing?
This article has been viewed 14,781 times. Belaying is a climbing technique in which a climber ascends while wearing a harness attached to a climbing rope. A climbing partner – called the belayer – stands below, controlling the tension on the climbing rope and helping the climber stay secure and avoid dangerous falls.
What to do when a climber falls?
If the climber starts to fall, reaches the top of the climb, or needs a moment to rest, pull the brake strand straight down while holding it directly in front of your body. For an extra stable brake, use both hands.
What does B stand for in a PBUS?
The B in PBUS stands for “Brake.”. Once you’ve removed enough slack from the climber’s rope, pull down on the brake strand to hold the rope in place. Braking is one of the most important parts of belaying, since you will need to be able to brake quickly in case of falls.
What is the tail end of a belay rope?
The tail end of the rope is the “brake strand,” which is the part of the rope that you will need to control in order to arrest falls and manipulate the amount of tension in the climbing rope. .
What is a belay device?
The most common type of belay device is an ACT, which features two slots for feeding through a bite of rope, and a wire keeper. Make a small bite (not a twist or full loop) in the opposite end of the rope from the one that is attached to the climber’s harness.
How does an auto belay work?
Unlike when a person is belaying you, the auto belay sort of works like a seat belt: It feels like the rope won’t catch you at first, but when you actually put your weight into it, it tightens up and keeps you from falling.
What is the job of a belayer?
The belayer’s job is to take up (and also let out) slack in the rope so that if at any time the climber falls, they fall only a short distance. These ropes systems are engineered to have a decent amount of friction so that even if the belayer isn’t doing a perfect job, the climber is still safe.
What is bouldering in rock climbing?
As I mentioned before, bouldering is when you climb up and around a rock wall without any kind of rope. There are crash pads under you, and you’re typically not going very high. But when you want to top rope—that is, climb high while using a system of ropes to keep you from falling—you need to be belayed.
What is the coolest thing about climbing?
One of the coolest things about climbing is that un like other sports or activities where you have to really learn a movement pattern before you can do it , the movement is pretty intuitive; you look at a wall with a bunch handholds, and your body just knows what you need to do to get to the top.
What to do before climbing a mountain?
One: Wear comfortable clothes you can really move in. You’re going to be stretching your limbs every which way, which is a thing you can’t really do in jeans. Two: Make sure your nails are trimmed.
What is chalk used for?
And a quick note about chalk: It should be your friend. Its purpose is to remove moisture from your hands, says Ashmont, and it can really help you grip the handholds. A lot of people underutilize it, but you can also use too much, so aim to just have a thin layer of white on your hand as you climb.
Why do ropes deserve their own section?
Ropes deserve their own section because you have to trust them to feel comfortable climbing. And I’ll be totally honest here: It takes some time to trust the system. But once you do, getting up on the wall is a million times less scary.
What is a grigri in belaying?
The Grigri is a a belaying tool with an automatic break in case a climber falls and the belayer isn’t quick enough to react. This is perfect for beginners as it makes matters a lot safer, but working with a different tool still threw me off.
How many requirements are there for a belay certification?
Generally, there’s 9 requirements to complete your belay certification. You need to:
How to get certified as a lead climber?
To get certified as a lead climber, you generally have to perform the climbing task on a intermediate difficulty climbing wall. Some climbing gyms require you to be older than you have to be just to be belay-certified.
How many lessons do you need to climb a mountain?
They need you to take 4 lessons and pass an exam. If you go to a different climbing gym, you need to be able to show or prove to them that you’ve had proper training and completed it successfully.
Is rock climbing easy in France?
I’ve been told that rock climbing gyms in France are a bit more easy going when it comes to maintaining the obliged belaying certification .
Can you belay without a certificate?
If you don’t have a certificate to belay and still want to climb without having to pay for an expensive instructor (which is worth it in the long run, though) then I suggest you find a rock climbing gym where they have automatic belaying devices. These are machines that essentially enable you to top rope without a climbing partner.
Do you have to belay certified to climb?
It doesn’t matter if you’re belaying with a grigri or not, you have to be belay-certified.
How to belay a climber?
Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart. Take two steps back from the climber's route to avoid standing directly beneath them, but stand close enough to the wall to have control over the rope. Use both of your hands. One hand is your guide hand that feeds more rope through the belay device.
How to stop rope from sliding through belay?
The other is your brake hand that stops the rope from sliding through the belay device should the climber fall. Use your dominant hand as your brake hand, and grip the rope at all times. Monitor the rope slack. If your rope is drooping below your belay device, you're giving too much slack.
What is a top rope belayer?
A top-rope belayer stands at the base of the wall and takes in rope slack as the top-rope climber ascends. Fixed-point belaying: If two rock climbers are on a crag at the same time, one may need to belay the other. To do so, the belyer feeds the rope through an anchor in the rock face, running it through the belay device while ...
How does a belay work?
Belaying works by controlling tension and friction on a climbing rope so that it can support the weight of the climber without pulling the belayer into the rock face. Climbing harnesses feature belay loops that attach, via a locking carabiner, to a belay device. This device allows the rope to pass through as the climber ascends, ...
What is the difference between lead belaying and top rope belaying?
There are multiple types of belaying. Lead belaying: In the lead belay technique , most of the rope is pooled on the ground at the feet of the belayer. This lead belayer feeds the rope to a climber who clips the rope to anchors along the rock face. Top-rope belaying: In top-rope climbing, a rope runs up and down a rock wall ...
Why do rock climbers slip?
Although rock climbers propel themselves upward using their arms and legs, a poor hand-grip or a jagged overhang can cause a climber to slip, at which point the climbing rope secures them and keeps them from tumbling down a rock face . The climber relies on a climbing partner to manage that rope—preventing too much slack or too much tension—through ...
How to check lead climber gear?
Double-check your lead climber's gear. Before your lead climber sets off, run a safety check on their gear. Make sure all figure-eight knots are tight, belay devices are properly threaded, climbing harnesses are buckled, climbing shoes are secure, and climbing helmets are snug. Spot the climber as they get on the wall.
